My Greatest Joy in Life

The greatest joy I’ve experienced in life is the elation evoked by arriving at a new beach for the first time, seeing a wave, and frothing at the prospect of surfing it. And if I happened to be there with a few good friends, then, all the better. I’m thoroughly convinced: surfing is the closest thing to Heaven on Earth.

The first picture I ever took of a wave, somewhere on the California Coast, and where it all began.